Rio de Janeiro in Images

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São Paulo (Working title: Faith and Alcohol)

So São Paulo (from now on abbreviated to SP, because it’s the most difficult word I’ve ever had to learn to spell) was another strange experience for me…
I left the hostel in Rio at 5am-ish, got an extortionately expensive taxi to the bus station and left at 5.35am. Before I’d left the hostel I checked my emails and had got some really strange emails from this woman in Recife, who has been stalking me for awhile, because she is in love with Neno. So that kind of wrecked my day. And the bus was freezing cold, and even though I’d been strangely foresight-ful and packed my jumper AND socks in my hand luggage, even that wouldn’t warm me up. So I didn’t have a particularly good sleep even though I was pretty flippin tired. I was looking forward to getting off the bus and warming up again in the Brazilian heat, but when we arrived in SP, and got off the bus it was even colder!! WTF?!
So I got to SP at about 12.15 – midday and rang Neno’s brother Luciano. I didn’t know what the hell he was saying – it didn’t sound like Portuguese, but I got the drift that he was going to be about an hour, and would ring the public payphone I’d called him on to say when he arrived. This was fine, except the public payphone I’d called him on was right next to where the buses arrived – not even through the arrival gates, and it was freezing cold and there were no seats. So I stood there next to the stupid payphones for two hours and he didn’t call.
I tried him again, and even tryed Neno, but the phone just wasn’t working. So I left the arrival gate and found a seat next to more public phones – very teary by this stage. I just didn’t know what to do – get another bus back to Rio, get a hostel in SP, get a ticket back to NZ? Hahaha. But eventually this little rastafarian looking man (minus the yellow teeth) came up to me and asked if I was Rosie.
It was just so flippin cold there! I couldn’t believe it. It was a comparatively unbearable 15 to 17 degrees there most days. I know NZ is the same, but I didn’t have any warm clothes with me. I lived in my jeans, jumper and socks most days. Then on Friday (I arrived midday Monday and left midday Sunday), the sun finally came out, and the whole city looked different. And my toes finally thawed out as well.
Also, one day I went to the shopping centre with Itala, where she works. It was huge and expensive. I needed to buy another XD card, and a 2Gig was R$219. A few days later I found one in a store in the city centre for only R$85. But I did buy a scarf and a hat. Both of which were bought more for the prettiness factor than for warmth, so they didn’t really help. But they did look pretty.
Luciano and Itala were quite strange, I came to realise. They used to fight over whether I was going to go to the shopping centre with Itala or the city with Luciano. At first I thought it was because they both wanted to show me everything…the way little kids are…but then one day, I wanted to see the fruit market, but Luciano said he needed the doctor and that it was too dangerous for me to go alone, so I told Itala I’d go to the shopping centre with her. When Luciano heard this, he told me he’d take me to the market, and no matter what I said (“you need the doctor” etc) he wouldn’t take no for an answer. But he said we’d leave after Itala and get back before her. And I heard him tell her that he was only going to buy a cover for his car. So he totally lied to her, then all day was being slightly creepy…or maybe I was just being paranoid, but he always sat incredibly close to me, making his whole leg touch mine…no matter how I contorted my body to get away. And he would stand basically on my feet when we were on the bus, and whisper unnessecarily in my ear and touch my back the whole day…Like he was leading me where to go, but really, I am 24 now (Argh!!), So I think I can handle myself.
Anyway, when Itala got home she asked me what I’d done that day, and so I told her I went to the market and she said “with Luciano?” and when I said yes, she marched in the kitchen and started talking so fast at Luciano that I didn’t understand, and then he picked a fight with her about a broken thermos, so she couldn’t get cross at him…it was crazy! I felt so uncomfortable there! So I was a little relieved to leave on Sunday.
But anyway, I did learn a couple of things in SP, that I have been wondering about during these five months. The first was that alcohol really does make you feel better. Not that I’ve actually drunk anything alcoholic since I left Rio, but I can understand how people become alcoholics…something bad happens and you drink a lot and forget that you hurt…then you sober up and start to hurt again…so you just keep drinking. Forever.
I know in the long run it doesn’t help, but at the time it really really does.
The second thing I finally “got” was how Brazilians can believe so fiercly in God when they live such apparently miserable lives. Faith. Things don’t seem so unbearable if you hae faith that everything is going to work out in the end. Or in the case of Brazilians – that everything happens because God wants it happen like this and God knows best. So they don’t actualy expect or want anything from God…they just know he’s there and everything that happens, happens because God has a plan and it’s all for the best. Athough to be honest, I haven’t tested (and don’t want to test) that theory on anything too serious like the guy from work who was happy that his wife had a miscarriage because it was God’s will. But I understand them at least now.
So that’s São Paulo!

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Rio de Janeiro (Working title: A big pile of spew)

Rio de Janeiro

Where to start?

I guess I’ll start at the beginning so you know why i feel like i do about this “Cidade Marvilhousa”.

After saying goodbye to everyone at the apartment, I got a taxi to the aeroport, and went to check in. It was 2.15am and I had to check in before 2.30 because the flight was leaving at 3am. But the lady at the desk said the flight had been cancelled, and I could either take a plane at 6am to Salvador then Rio, or at 7am straight to Rio.

So I decided on the 7am flight, and so had to spend almost 5 hours at the airport. I tried to read my book, but kept falling asleep and dropping it on the floor, so then I decided just to sleep. I found the area with a few other people sleeping, so I didn’t feel like such a loser, but sleeping, sitting up in a airport chair is incredibly uncomfortable, so basically I sat there with my eyes closed feeling miserable. Then I went for a walk around the airport, which is quite flash actually – about as flash as Auckland, which is one of the nicest airports I’ve seen. But I bought a pinting on unstretched canvas about two months ago which wouldn’t fit in my suitcase so I had to carry it around, and I left that somewhere in the airport. Oops.

Eventually it was time to board the flight and I got a good window seat, but I was asleep before the plane even left the ground. And take-off is my favourite part so I was a bit gutted when I woke up two hours later with a flippin sore neck and realised we were half way to Rio already. It was actually very similar to my trip into Rio five months ago…I was very upset about having to leave behind my new family and friends. Also, I didn’t have anywhere to stay in Rio, just a business card of a hostel Grace had thrust into my hand at the last minute. She had stayed in it when she had gone to Rio.

So when the plane landed, I went to get my luggage off the carousel. I had three pieces because I was carrying one for Diana, the Italian girl who was already in Rio. Finally there were only two pieces left on the carosel, so I took them, assuming they were mine. They did look very similar, except one had a broken handle when I knew it wasn’t broken when I gave it in. But it was a heavy bag, so maybe they broke it putting it on the plane.
 
I got a taxi, which was ridiculously expensive – $R80 – although to be fair it was a 40 minute drive. When I got there, luckily they had a room for me :)
The hostel was really nice. Really basic, but had a friendly atmosphere. It’s run by an American and a Brazilian. The Brazilian is cool, but the American….is American.
 
 
Anyway, I went to open my luggage, when I realised the bag wasn’t mine after all! So I cried to myself a little bit, then went to the internet and tryed contacted TAM who said it was the fault of the airport cos they packed the plane. So I tried to look up the contact details of the airport, but couldn’t find them. So then I went back and just stared at the bag in despair. Whose ever it was had put something in the front pocket and hadn’t locked it. I totally knew I shouldn’t of, but I couldn’t help it. I had a look at what they’d stored in there. But when I opened it, I found all my own stuff! After a second of thinking “hey! I have one of these too!” I realised it was actually my bag after all! I’m such a disaster.
And after so long living in the country, and living like a Brazilian…this is the first time I feel like a tourist. And I don’t like it! I don’t like the other tourists either. Most of them are so disrespectful of the country and the culture. I think all they came for was the beaches and the reputation of the Brazilian men and women. So I tried to stay away from them as much as possible, although that’s incredibly hard in a small hostel when you have to share the room with six other girls.
On the first night I went out for dinner with a few of the other guys in the hostel. That’s one good thing about the tourists I guess…they’re really friendly because mostly they’re travelling alone. Then I just went to sleep early and had an awesome nights sleep! It was crazy…It was like I was dead to the world. Then, on Friday I went to Copacabana and had a drink on the beach. I had good old Guaraná and agua de coco. No more alcohol for me. The beach was quite nice, but I prefer Boa Viagem :)
In the afternoon I went with some other of the people from the hostel – who weren’t so completely awful – to Cristo Redenter, the Sambadrome, the Catedral Metropolitan and the Maracaná football stadium. The catedral was amazing. It was pretty ugly from the outside – like a round concrete pyrimid – but inside had four 60 metre high stained glass windows. They were gorgeous.
Cristo Redenter was also amazing. The city of Rio really is beautiful from a distance. And the statue itself was very peaceful. It’s pretty huge when you’re up close, but when you’re in the city looking up at it, it’s not so big – it’s quite tiny actually. And I saw monkys. Or monkies. Or monkees. I’m not sure which. 
That night I went out with Diana and Michaela, the Italian girls from Recife, and some trainees from Rio. We went to a samba club but it wasn’t much fun. Haha. I prefer Recife :)  I know I sound like a tourist who’s always comparing everything to their home country…but too bad this time. I tried to like Rio.
I can’t dance to Samba…I’ve been taught, but I don’t really feel it, even after cerveja and caipirinhas. But it was way better going out with these guys. They understand Brasil and live like Brazilians too, so I felt more at home with them than the guys from the backpackers. At about 2am I went back to the hostel, although I didn’t have any money, so I had to get the taxi driver to stop at an ATM for me. The taxi driver was a little strange. He tried to chat me up for ages, then asked “so is your boyfriend in Recife?” I don’t think he could have been more subtle if he tried, especially cos he kept offering to take me out the next day. After I said “yes, my boyfriend’s in Recife. And he’s Brazilian.” He seemed to get the hint although he wouldn’t talk to me after that. Brazilians man…
On Saturday it rained and stormed and there was thunder and lightning, so I just chilled out at the hostel…internet, tv (in English!!), and sleep :) On Sunday was going to be the elections for the local governments of Brasil, so Rio had a 24hour alcohol ban. For this, no-one really went out at night either…none of the samba clubs were open because they were Sunday’s polling booths, and most of the other places shut down too. If they can’t serve alcohol I guess they’re not ging to make much money. So I just watched a movie on TV, and went to sleep early again. Man! Rio is awesome!
So I decided that on Sunday I’d better see some more of the sights. I stole the Rio de Janeiro Lonely Planet book from the hostel, and decided to do the walking tour of the historical centre of Rio. It looked pretty good on paper. So I left at about 10am, and stopped at the local cafe (yes! they have cafe’s here!!) for a bowl of ácai. There was a craaaazy little old Brazilian man at the cafe who I couldn’t understand at all, cos of his high-pitched voice, but he seemed to be trying to hook me up with this random german dude sitting at one of the tables. It rather ruined the ácai, so I quickly left after that. I took the metro – which is probably the best metro system in the world – to Centro. It has a pretty name actually – Cididania (with a strange accent in a place I can’t remember).
It was absolutely deserted. There were a couple of homeless men sitting around a makeshift fire, and a youngish-looking woman scurrying (the first time I’ve actually understood what this word looks like) around a corner. So I gave a mandatory appraisal of the Teatro Municipal (a theatre) that is supposed to be “Rio’s greatest building” and decided there was a lot to be desired. But anyway, I continued on the walking tour, getting more and more disheartened. I thought everyone was supposed to love Rio!
Everything was closed in the centre of Rio. I’d read in the book that Centro was usually deserted and dangerous in the weekends because all the shops shut, but I didn’t realise they meant ALL THE SHOPS SHUT. Even McDonalds. When I saw that, I realised the day was going to be a write-off. Not that I wanted McDonalds, but if McDonalds is closed…there’s no hope.
About the most interesting thing that happened on my walking tour of the centre was when I stumbled across a huge pile of vomit, all swept up into the corner. And I mean a pile…like when you bring in a load of washing off the line and can’t be assed folding them up, so you dump them in a pile in the hall…that’s how big it was. Although on closer inspection it turned out to be spicy wedges, rice and feijoada all thrown on to the street and brushed into a pile. So even that was a little disappointing :(
I know I didn’t go on the right day, and before I leave Brasil I’ll go back on a weekday, but Rio just seemed boring and dead. It was like a heavy curtain had been dropped down on the city and everything was so quiet. In Recife, no matter what time of day or night, it was always colourful and cheerful and full of music. But Rio seemed like a ghost town. And it was so dirty and full of litter.
So then I decided to stuff the stupid walking tour, and instead trekked up to the top of the city and visited the São Bento Monestary. I was rewarded before I even got close, as I saw a monk wearing long black robes and little circle glasses. He looked so archaic. I finally got to the Monestary and it was well worth it.
It was on a hill on top of the city and just walking through the gates was instantly calm. There were more monks inside – black robes, shaven heads, round glasses. And inside the monestary itself was amazing! Although there were some restorations being done on the alter part of the church, which was covered up, the rest of the church was open. And it was dripping with gold. Everything was made from gold…the statues, the walls, the ceiling…it was so ornate as well. And because it was dark inside, and lit only by candles (and, I guess, because it is a church) it was incredibly peaceful. Until a family of rich, loud-mouthed Brazilians came in to scout out where their wedding photos would look more beautiful, and totally ruined the tranquility.
So then I walked back to the tube station, stopping off on the way for some Guaraná at a little food stand. The old men at the stand almost wouldn’t sell me Guaraná Zero because “don’t need it”, so I compromised and bought a hot-dog with everything. I stayed there for awhile, chatting to the old men who though I was Argentinian, which was a nice change, after being mistaken for a German, like, a thousand times. I’m so weird now…I feel more at home with Brazilians even though I have to speak Portuguese, than I do with my fellow english-speaking travellers.
Then I went and visited Seleron’s Steps. Seleron is a Chilian born artist, who has been transforming this huge huge flight of stairs in the arty corner of Rio, with mosiacs and tiles. It’s so so beautiful. It’s like an explosion of colour – the way I imgine Rio should be. I walked up the stairs a short way, and then just sat and watched the view. It was also quite peaceful. As I was leaving, this crazy man with crazy white hair and really strange facial hair, and wearing no shirt, asked me where I was from. I talked to him even though he was a little strange, and he could even speak basic english. He was actually Seleron himself, and he took me and another family into his “house” which was, in fact, a room with a bed and thousands and thousands of tiles. He then showed us thousands of newspaper clippings from around the world, that feature his stairs. He was a really nice guy actually. He also showed me on the stairs that there were four tiles from New Zealand! I was very impressed.
If you want to see the stairs, they’re on Snoop Dogg’s (or whatever he’s calling himself these days) video for Beautiful. I’m pretty sure it’s on YouTube.
After that it started to rain, so I got the metro back to Copacabana and walked 45 minutes to the hostel. Then I had a tuna and maionnaise sandwhich for dinner (I’m mixing it up now as you can see, mum) and watched a movie and packed up all my things cos I was going to São Paulo early early the next morning. Then I woke up at about 4am and got a taxi to the bus station (again, ridiculously expensive).
And that was the end of Rio de Janeiro.

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My favourite time in Brasil (skip to the end to see the photos, I know that’s all you want!)

So on Sunday, Neno picked me up at 4.30. While I was waiting for him, Gustavo, the annoying kid from next door had caught a butterfly and was torturing her. So I let her go, and told him to catch a lizard thing, which there are thousands of. I thought he wouldn’t be able to find one, but he soon came back saying there was a giant one around the corner. So I took the box and put it against the wall, and went behind the lizard (which was tiny), and clapped my hand. And it ran straight into the box. Haha. They’re so stupid. That was one of my Brasil highlights actually J

 

But me and Neno finally left. It only took about an hour to get there, but it was dark when we arrived. The house was absolutely huge! It’s also used as an NGO sometimes, by Neno’s friend, because there’s so much room. But there was no electricity when we arrived and the caretaker who lives there was not at home, so we couldn’t even get the keys to enter. So instead we went to the beach and had a beer. Neno finally got a bit of reception on his phone to ring his friend from the same area and he invited us to church. So we went to church.

 

It was an evangelical church and when we got there, they were in the middle of signing songs. There was a drummer (who also turned out to be the pastor or whatever they call it in evangelical churches), a guitarist, a keyboardist and three signers. Most of the congregation were kids and teenagers, and for a couple of songs they got real into it – standing up, clapping and signing loudly. And Neno sang a bit too which was really cute; although he’s not an evangelist, so don’t worry. Afterwards, we talked to a few of the people. Neno knows them because they run a big NGO in the area where they adopt or look after for awhile, lots of poor street children. They were all really nice, although one woman – a German actually, was unnaturally happy I thought.

 

When we went back home the caretaker was there, and he gave us the keys. After awhile the electricity came back on as well, but we had to eat dinner by candlelight (not as romantic as it sounds). Then we made caipi-frutas with orange and acerola. It was actually really difficult for me to drink anything, cos I’d seriously been drinking for a week! We ended up having a long discussion about god, but I still don’t fully know how people in Brasil can believe in him so blindly. I don’t know what they think he does – it’s like they give him credit for all the good things that happen, but if anything bad happens, they say it’s the fault of man. As though man can’t do anything good himself, but causes all the bad things in the world to happen.

 

Anyway, we woke up mid-morning and went to the beach. First we went to a beach called Pedra de Xaréu. Pedra means rocks or stones, and the beach was covered in black rocks. It was really beautiful. We walked al the way down the beach and over the rocks and burnt our feet. Neno’s friend owns a bar at this beach but she wasn’t there, so after a quick swim we went to another beach called Calhetas. It was a really beautiful beach, but quite small and the sand was really coarse. It was my favourite. We had a couple of beers and shared a fish that was pink and some thick macaxeira wedges. It was really nice. Then we went for a walk over to another beach that is nicknamed Gay-bú because apparently lots of gays go there (the biggest beach in the area is called Gaibú).

 

Then we went for a tour around the other beaches, including one called Paraiso (paradise) which looked more like an industrial wasteland. And we saw monkeys in the trees! And some really old ruins of a forte. It was really beautiful.

 

When we got back home, we were really tired, so we took some pitanga berries and limes off the trees in the orchard and made more caipri-frutas. And then had a really early night.

 

The next day – I’d totally lost my sense of time by this time – we went back to Xaréu and this time Neno’s friend Elle and her husband were there! She’s so crazy but really cool. There was a lot of confusion at first, cos Elle is pronounces very similarly to ele which means him in Portuguese. So I kept being confused as to who was being talked about. But we had lots and lots of fun on this day! We drank so much cerveja, and also had a couple of shots of cashaça (I’m almost Brazilian now cos I actually like cashaça now). For lunch we had lobster, then caldinhos and rice and oyster stew. And Elle and her husband, and their friends Sandra and Fernando (who were a little scary) kept coming and going too, so it was a really nice day. We also did a bit of fishing from the beach and caught a fish, but he was quite small so we threw him back.  By the time we left at late afternoon, we’d been through 10 600mL bottles of cerveja!

 

Then we went home and made churrasco and potatoes, and had a sleep. I think the sun really exhausted us actually. Then we bought a couple of bottles of wine and went back to Xaréu and had dinner with Elle and her friends. We had lasagna and red wine which was perfect! But we had too much to drink, so we couldn’t drive home. Instead, the husband of Elle drove us in his buggy. It was awesome!

 

The next morning we got up quite early for some reason…I guess because it was so hot…and then we went back to Xaréu. We had to go on a bus first, then motor taxis. We tried to do a bit of fishing, but the tide was too far out and we caught nothing. So we had some Guaraná (I think even Neno, hardened drinker that he is (not) had had too much to drink this weekend). So then we got the motorbike and went home, packed up and went back to Recife L

 

It was by far my best time in Brasil and my best memories. When we got back to Recife, I had to pack up all my stuff, then went to Olinda with Neno to say goodbye to his house and Otto, his dog. Then we went to Socaldinhos for my farewell dinner. Quite a few AIESECers came and it was so so so sad (this time gets three so’s). Emília cried and made me cry, and she gave me her earrings, which was the sweetest present. Cecelia gave me a flag of Brasil that she’d used to cheer on Brasil when they won the worldcup, and she’s written a really sweet note on it.

 

Then I had to say goodbye to Alex, who is like my brother, and Steph who is like my sister (even though I only knew her for a few weeks), and Fallon and Grace. THEN I had to say goodbye to Neno which was the saddest of all.

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Very last days in Recife

Ah man, I have a lot of days to catch up on!

 

On Thursday after work I visited Neno again at his work, but just for about 20 minutes. It was probably a waste of time, but I just couldn’t help it! On Friday was my last day at work. I just went for the morning to sort out the last few things, then I went shopping. I bought a strapless bra so I could finally wear my clothes that needed it (but two days later, thanks to Murphy, the package from NZ arrived in the post, and now I have two strapless bras).

 

Then me and Steph went to Burburinho’s for a drink with Mônica, her boyfriend and Thiago – a couple of my friends from work. They’re really lovely – I wish they’d been working the entire time I was, cos they’re way more fun than the others who used to work there. Apart from all the caiprioskas we drank (actually, this time we had caiprinha’s cos they’re cheaper), I also had lots of honey cashaça that Mônica brought. It was really good at the time, although I tried some more a couple of days later and I couldn’t stomach it (although that’s probably because I drank so flippin much this day).

 

After Burburinho’s I had to say goodbye to Mônica and Thiago…my first goodbyes *tear*. Also, I had to say goodbye to Burburinho’s *even bigger tear*. But we went to Downtown next, for the birthday party of Renata. We got there at just after midnight I think, and so it was still going strong. She had a whole upstairs part of the bar roped off for her party and she had bottles of whiskey for each table, lots of little cocktail food and a humongous beautiful chocolate cake. Her family is filthy rich. It was a crazy party but Neno was working the whole time so it was sad. And I shouldn’t really go there so much, because it’s so unfair to have fun in front of him while he’s working, but I like to see him so at work will have to do.

 

He always gives me fancy free drinks…my favourite is the one that’s always on fire…it makes my throat hurt with flames. Whenever we go, we don’t have to line up like everyone else…we just go straight to the front and the bouncer lifts up the tape for us and kisses our checks. We get so many dirty looks though! Nightclubs here work different from NZ…when you enter, you give your name and they give you a card, then you use the card to buy drinks and you can’t leave until you’ve paid the card off at the door. But the man at the door never gives me a card. Apart from the drinks Neno gives me, Renata always buys me drinks too. So when I should be spending about R$150 a night on drinks, and R$50 on taxis…I don’t pay anything. Renata’s private chauffer or Neno gives me a ride home.

 

Steph is really cool…on Saturday we bought pizza’s from the supermarket and had a whole pizza each! It was awesome. In the morning I actually had to throw up, and the vomit was bright bright orange. Like the colour of the orange highlighter before you use it over an ink pen and it gets strips of blue ink down it. Proper orange. Man it was gross, but then I felt way better and ate my whole pizza. Good times.

 

Later, Neno came and we had cachorro quente (Brazilian hotdogs) and caldo (I think it’s called), which is a sugar cane that is put through a huge press to get the sweet liquid out of it. It was a really strange taste…I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but it was weird. Nice, but I prefer Guaraná. Then he had to go to work, and later, Renata came and picked up me and Steph and we all went to Downtown AGAIN!!

 

This time it was nice…quite laidback, there was a cover band of Nirvana playing who were really good. So we had a few drinks and a bit of a dance though I couldn’t really get into it. Dancing to nirvana is strange.

 

Then on Friday, me and Neno went to the beach!!!! Actually, this deserves it’s own post…

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Last days in Recife

I went to the bank with Neno today, to bank a cheque from when I used to teach English. While we were there, an armoured vehicle pulled up outside, I guess to take money from the bank to another bank, or whatever it is they do. Two guards got out and came to stand by the door and guard the process. They both had humongous guns. Like sniper rifles actually. It was pretty scary and it got me thinking (like a lot of things seem to do)…

Is it weird that people will shoot other people just over money? I never really thought about it before. Or maybe the shock of actually seeing men with such scary guns made the reality sink in, that they would actually shoot someone, take someone’s life, just over some money. Or maybe I’ve finally learnt – really learnt – that money isn’t everything. Isn’t even close to being something. I don’t know…this is sounding strange isn’t it? But really…if someone stole the money, even if they stole $1 billion, the bank has insurance, it’s not losing out, the man with the money won’t hurt anyone anymore…why kill him???? Although then I guess that’s like saying everyone can do it…”feel free to take our money” kinda thing…and the money could be used for funding guns, drugs, guerillas, favela wars…But still, taking someone’s life for it is crazy. Specially when you realize that these people have orders to do it. They’re not crazy criminals…they’re actually allowed to do it – the government WANTS them to do it.

OK…sorry about that…when I start writing I just write whatever comes to my head at the time, regardless.

Today is my last day at work. It’s a happy/sad day. Happy because I feel like I’ve done all I can for this organisation, and after this I’m on proper holidays. On Sunday me and Neno are going to his house in Gaibu – a beautiful (and quiet) beach about an hour out of Recife, so I’m really really looking forward to that. And then the Amazon, which I have a feeling will be my kind of place, and then home to see everyone again!! But sad as well because I’ve really loved working here, specially these last two months…the people are cool, the atmosphere is relaxed, free internet access J, I’ve done things for them that couldn’t otherwise have done, and I’ve experienced full-on culture shock (also I’m a bit hungover so that doesn’t help).

I remember when I first arrived and I was so so homesick and lost and I thought these five months would never end. I actually went through my diary and wrote a countdown to the day I left Recife. Like I seriously found the 2nd of October and wrote 0, then counted backwards to day 166. Then I used to cross the days off every night. I used to imagine what it would be like to be on day 5 or 4 or something and thought I would be glad…but it’s so the opposite.

Yesterday, I got the bus to work that takes me right past the Brazilian Denzel, as usual, but this time, I was sitting right at the front of the bus so I stood up extra early to get to the back. So I think he must of seen me in the bus, or maybe saw me walking to work in the distance, I don’t know. Anyway, when I arrived I was taking out my laptop and setting up and everything, when the receptionist told me there was a man to see me. It was the Brazilian Denzel. He actually came to work. He gave me a little statue (I guess it’s called) of two frogs made of shells, one massaging the shoulder of the other one. It was really sweet of him. But a little (I would say a lot but I feel mean cos he’s so nice) creepy as well. Then on the way home I had to give him my address in NZ so he can send me a postcard and he gave me his. That’s ok right? It’s not like he can steal my identity or anything can he??

After work, Neno came to Boa Viagem and we went to our favourite place for lunch and had feijoada. It’s this tiny little place that looks real diiirty on the outside, but the food is the best. Then we went around to my apartment and I made pineapple caip-a-frutas and we chilled out in the hammock all afternoon. At nighttime, I went to Downtown with Renata again. I thought maybe last time she managed to drink me under the table because I was quite tired, so I thought I’d give it another shot. Bad idea. I was drinking too fast, but also too many different types of alcohol. Neno made me heaps of different kinds of shots…layered shots, shots on fire, strong shots, sweet shots…and on top of that we were drinking Smirnoff Ice’s – in shot form. This is the way you should really take this drink. In double shot glasses. Try it.

So we danced a bit too…it’s so weird dancing to music you don’t understand. PMB (Brazilian Popular Music) is really strange anyway, and cos I can’t understand the lyrics it’s even more strange. But dancing was fun. Then I had to bail out, but Renata was still going strong. We got a call at about 9am and she was still drinking. So me and Neno went home early.

Then today I spent the morning with him. We did boring things like go to the airport to pick up his passport, go to the bank, got an oil change for his motorbike. Haha. Then he dropped me off at work, and that’s been my exciting day!

Ya know, the entire time I’ve been writing these posts, I’ve tried to get all the spelling and grammar and stuff correct (I’m a little on the autistic side when it comes to this because when I spell something incorrectly, I have a funny feeling in the back of my head, kind of where my jaw is attached to my skull, and it only goes away when I correct the mistake. And those red squiggly lines that underline mistakes…they make me shudder just thinking about them). Anyway, the one grammar thing I never change is saying for example “me and Neno went home” instead of “Neno and I went home.” So soz about that.

Note: After writing everything above yesterday, I was thinking last night again about the men with guns at the bank. Imagine the interview when these men were hired – “Are you prepared to kill someone if they attempt to steal the money?”

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A photo montage…cos we all love them so much

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Bags of fish

I think the honeymoon period with the yoghurt is over. I bought some graviola flavour yoghurt the other day cos there was no honey flavoured, but it tasted like bile. Or like that taste you always have in your throat after you’ve thrown up. The weird thing about supermarkets here, is the stock levels are always very inconsistent. One day you can go and buy honey yoghurt for example, and then for a week or two, there’s none. Then there’s thousands of honey flavoured but no strawberry…Neno, because he’s quite old (haha), lived through the time in Brasil when the currency was really unstable. He said you’d go to the supermarket one day and buy bread for $2.00, then the next morning it would be $5.00, then that afternoon it would be $11.00 and so on. Stories about what they had to live through here are hard to believe.

Anyway, despite the yogurt fiasco, I have decided that Brasil is definitely the place for me. I am going to live here forever. Apart from everything else that I love, I would live here solely for the fact that it’s considered beautiful to have a big butt and “strong” legs. At first, I was quite offended when people started commenting on my ass, but women here spend thousands going to the gym to bulk up their lower body. It’s just so strange to me. On Friday, a woman at work told me I look Brazilian because of this, and then me and Carlos were talking to a woman and her daughter at the hospital, and the mother started touching my legs and telling me they were beautiful. Wtf?!? And on Saturday night I was talking to this woman who works in Recife Antigo – a little crazy actually – and she did the same. Awkwaaaard. So for this reason, Brasil is going to be my new home J

This week at work I visited IMIP hospital (pronounced im-e-pe. Brazilians – in the northeast anyway – always add eeee to the end of all words…regardless of weather or not an e is present). It’s a hospital for pregnant women and infants. Although it’s a public Hospital, I was quite surprised at the quality of it…the building was run down and the waiting rooms full, the lines endless, but it seemed a way nicer place than the other public hospitals in Recife. Me and Carlos talked to a few different women, and I saw the cutest baby in the world, who was only 3 days old and couldn’t open his eyes, but was continuously smiling. Awwwwww. The main problem at this hospital was the lack of doctors and nurses, so people were still waiting for hours and hours and hours. But at least it was a nice end to my work at ADUSEPS.

There’s a man – Thiago – working at ADUSEPS now as the communications director for Renê’s election campaign and he’s a little strange. He shares the same office as me, and always wants to use my computer to search for information about god…then he writes big fact sheets up about weather there’s scientific proof of god or not. And every day he tells me he’s gonna miss me when I leave. This makes me angry for some reason. Actually, I think most people at ADUSEPS must think I’m some sort of psychopath, just yesterday, a woman who works with us walked past our room and popped in to say hi. After she left, Thiago asked if I liked her, when I answered of course I do, he said “but you don’t like me do you?” Haha…But as soon as I’m friendly with someone, they get all creepy, like the guy who sent me thousands of messages and stuff on Orkut and Facebook.

Apart from that, work has been pretty gay. I don’t have much to do now that I only have a week left. I think maybe this week I’ll just chill at the beach. And plan my travels to the Amazon.

But outside of work, I’ve been very busy. On Monday, Neno came to Boa Viagem and took me out for lunch for my birthday. That stretched my birthday celebrations to five days! We had macaxeira (the root vegetable kinda similar to kumara) and chicken Dona Maria. This is chicken that is cooked in chicken blood. It was so so good. Perfect, but this is one dish that I don’t think I’d have the stomach to actually cook, so it’s not going on my list. Neno gave me a birthday present (the only birthday present I got. Although Renand gave me chocolate, and Grace gave me a little cake thing cos she forgot it was my birthday). He gave me some earrings with little silver dragonflies on, and a keyring and some Romeo and Juliet chocolate. Then we went to the beach and played in the sand, and went for a long walk. (Remember the email I wrote before I came here and was being silly saying I liked candlelit dinners and long walks on the beach?? That was basically my birthday!! It was perfect).

We also met a famous Brazilian football player called Shampoo. He was so hilarious. He has the biggest head in the world, that’s emphasized by his humongous hair. He’s so famous because he plays for Ibis…the worst team in the world. Seriously. If you look in Guinness World Record, they’re there. They lost 70 games in a row. How is that even possible?? But they’ve canned the team now cos they were so awful, and so Shampoo now works as a hairdresser. It’s so perfect when you see his hair. Neno bought me a documentary about him and he signed it for me J

On Tuesday night I went to Burburinho’s with Julian and some of his friends. Actually, first I went to the bookstore and bought a book about travelling around Brasil and now I’m so so excited about it! I’m going to the Amazon for sure. But then I went to Burburinho’s and had a couple of beers, a couple of pastels and a couple of caiprioskas. Burburinho’s is my favorite place. Then me and Julian went and bought some more beer and went back to his place so I could visit Marcela, his fiancé. We soon finished the beer, so went to the petrol station and bought more. It actually turned into a long night, but they’re really cool. Then I had to stay over at their place cos the buses had stopped at midnight.

On Wednesday I went to Burburinho’s again – just to meet Neno there this time – although we did have a drink or two, then we went to Marco Zero, the square in front of the sea in Recife Antigo, and just chilled out really. On Thursday we went to Burburinho’s AGAIN, and had a few drinks. All the staff there knows me, and the manager in particular is such a sweetheart and always comes and chats while I wait for Neno. After a few drinks I went home and Neno went to work.

On Thursday afternoon, a new trainee came to Brasil from England, called Steph. She moved in with us and a few of the AIESECers came and we all went to the local market for some food. Steph is so cool. I’ve only known her for about four days, but already she’s by far my favourite trainee ever! She’s so happy and easy to talk to and has the most awesome English accent. Apart from one very large exception, all of us trainees have got on really well, but I wish Steph had been here since the beginning…it would have been way more awesome.

On Friday, I got to work quite early and then took a really long lunch and went shopping. I walked to Casa de Cultura which used to be a prison. It’s a huge absolutely beautiful building…high ceilings, cast iron railings, rickety stairs…and each prison cell has been converted to a cute little store selling artisan crafts and products. I bought a few little presents and a necklace for myself made from acaí seeds…beautiful red beads. And I was feeling a little sad so they cheered me up J On my way to Casa de Cultura, I passed this road with lots of little kiosks that sold fish and aquarium stuff. It was weird cos there was maybe half a kilometer of aquarium shops. Do the people in this area have some strange shopping-for-fish addiction? And wouldn’t it be more profitable for the venders if they spread out over the city? I guess the thinking is, if you want a fish, you know where to go. Anyway, all of that aside, it was so beautiful because they had the fish inside little jars and inside little bags, and they were all strung up on the fence. It was a little cruel, but still beautiful.

Then, on Friday night, I met Neno at Burburinho’s again. Haha. We had one quick drink, then went to Renata’s house. Renata is an old friend of Neno, and I’d heard lots of stories about her from several of Neno’s friends, but I thought she was lovely. We had a few drinks at her house, and then we all went to Downtown, the nightclub where Neno works. I had lots of fun…dancing and talking and drinking. The only problem was, Renata can really hold her drink, so I was struggling to keep up. Also, I didn’t pay for any drinks at all, so that wasn’t limiting me either. Eventually I had to stop. She’s the first person I’ve met who can drink me under the table. At about 4am, the club was emptying, so we all left and went down to Garagem. It’s the pub/bar that is a mechanic’s in the daytime, but on Fridays and Saturdays they play sweet as rock music and sell beer. It was an awesome place, although the clientele is a little on the dodgy side. Also, when I arrived I smacked into a piece of steel hanging down and cut my forehead open. Haha. Then Neno got me some ice from the bar, and I held that in place, which gave me ice burns…so now I have a cut and lots of red ice-burned skin.

Renata had paid for a taxi for the whole night…she has her own personal driver. So he stayed outside the bars while we were inside, then drove us to the next place, then drove us home. It was quite cool, but sad when you think how this highlights the problems of Brasil – the rich-poor divide.

I got home at about 7am and slept a bit, then had some lunch (including a litre of yogurt) and just chatted with Steph. Then I had another small sleep and went to Burburinho’s with Neno. Haha. There’s a joke going now that this is my house. We had quite a few drinks this time, and were joined at various times by people walking past that we knew. This is another thing I love about Recife. All the bars are outside and really laidback, and everyone’s so lovely, that you usually meet loads of people you know, or just make friends with random people going past.

Afterwards, I went to Downtown again. There was a band playing covers of Coldplay, which was awesome, then, after a break, they came back and played songs from The Beatles and Simon and Garfunkel. Even though I was by myself, I had loads of fun. Neno was working in the upstairs bar with two other guys, and although they won’t speak to me, they always keep an eye on me, and I see them talking to Neno all the time about me. I think I passed the test though, cos some guy came to talk to me, and I told him I didn’t speak Portuguese, then, when he kept harassing me, I told him to leave me alone. And so they told Neno that I’m a “good girlfriend”. It’s a bit awkward actually, but some of the other guys who work there are cool. One guy in particular – Albert – is crazy but I really like him. I went to his birthday party this one time, which was full of more crazy gay men (Albert is gay also). And every time I see him he kisses me hello, either on the hand or the top of my head, but instead of actually kissing, he sniffs me. It’s very odd.

And another guy who works there is really funny. He thinks he can speak English, so whenever English people come in to Downtown, he talks to them. He’s always like “Don’t worry, I speak English. Leave it to me.” Then he goes and spews out random English phrases. He has no idea what they mean he just says them. They have this bell in Downtown behind the bar, that they ring for fun sometimes, and this one time, at band camp, he spread his arms out wide and shouted “My people!!” Then he rang the bell, spread his arms out again and shouted “Please don’t go!!” Man that was funny. But he’s too ashamed to talk to me in English cos he knows I know. Haha.

But, good times. When we left, me and Neno spent about an hour on the beach in Boa Viagem, just being silly and taking pictures, and talking about life in general. Everyday he surprises me more. I got home at about 6 or 7am and slept until 1pm J So I’ve had another nice week. But I feel like I have to go out all the time and see everyone cos I’m leaving in only nine days now!!

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You know what I did last weekend

I’ve already drunk a litre of yoghurt today and it’s only 1.39pm.

I’ve pretty much finished work now…I went into work everyday this week but barely had anything to do. On Wednesday I went to the public hospital with Deborah – another girl who works for ADUSEPS. I was going so I could take a photo of the pharmacy there, which had totally run out of medicine. The biggest hospital in the state and it has no medicine. But they wouldn’t let me. It’s prohibited to take photos in the hospital, and the last time I did it, I got in trouble, so I didn’t want to try again, in case they totally banned ADUSEPS from entering. After that we went to the morgue and checked off the people who had died, against our list of people who need ICU treatment and medicines. Over 1000 people this year have already died because they couldn’t get ICU treatment in time.

It’s unbelievable. You think back to the middle ages when people were living in the most awful conditions and dying everyday from easily treatable diseases, and think “look how far we’ve come.” But here, we haven’t come that far at all. People are still living in unimaginably awful conditions, and dying from things that in NZ can be treated by a five second injection, or NZ$15 for medications.

Brasil has come a long way, particularly in the last 20 to 30 years. Their economy is now the 9th largest in the world, and they’re no longer classed as a developing country. In fact, when all the countries in the world are split into first world, developing, and third world countries, Brasil is a first world country (right at the bottom of the list, but still). And because of this, no other country will help out with aid or funds.

But it’s totally unfair, because there’s rich people and poor people here. The rich are incredibly rich, and, like rich people everywhere, don’t give a damn about the poor people. And the poor are incredibly poor. I read a study the other day that found it’s the middle class that help – by donating time, donating money, becoming sponsors of NGOs, that kind of thing. But there’s no middle class here. Also, in the northeast, and Pernambuco and Recife in particular, it’s the poorest part of Brasil. If the states of Brasil were countries, we’d be classed as a developing country, whereas parts of Rio de Janeiro would have a higher Human Development Index than even Sweden.

And one more thing before I bore you all to death…I know the economy is important, but as a government, what could be more important than the health and education of your citizens?

OK. I’ve finished.

So when we were walking to the hospital, and all around the hospital, and all the way back to ADUSEPS, Deborah wanted to hold my hand. Wtf?? She’s so lovely, she’s the coolest person who works at ADUSEPS, and we’re good friends, but the hand-holding was a little weird. And everyone was staring at us. Haha.

By Thursday I was pretty bored. Nothing to do at work all day, nothing to do all night (Neno is sick with a sore tooth and a swollen face. The cloves didn’t work so now he’s on the hard drugs). Also, it was almost my birthday, so what better reason to go out? Me, Alex, Fallon and Grace went to Burburinho’s with Julian and Marcela (the French guy and his fiancé). It was pretty good…we drank lots of beer and by the end of the night my face was so sore from laughing so much. Fallon drank nine caiprioskas which was very impressive. But then she threw up when we got home L

Before I went to Burburinho’s, Neno came to Boa Viagem and we had macaxeira (a root vegetable similar to kumara, but a lot different. Haha. It’s hard to describe, but gorgeous) for dinner. Then we went to the beach for awhile. I love the beach at night time. All the kids go to the beach after school, and after the sun goes down (and it gets slightly cooler) they play huge games of football on the sand. And every single Brazilian is a flippin awesome football player. So it’s cool to just sit and watch.

On Friday night me Marcela and Julian went back to Burburinho’s for another drink. It was really nice, although I was totally late and Marcela got pissed off and left early, so it was just me and Julian and lots of beer and caiprioskas. Another late, drunken night.

On Saturday I had a nice sleep in. This is probably the first time in my life that I’ve had regular weekend sleep-in’s and I love it! It was actually a very unproductive day, because we’d been invited to an AIESEC conference and spent most of the day trying to organize a ride there. It was in Aldeia, a little town about an hour’s drive from Recife. Finally the people at the conference sent someone back for us, and we left at about 4pm.

The conference sessions I went to were BORING. All in Portuguese, which I understood at first, but then the president started talking and he talks so so fast it was like he was speaking a totally different language. Which he kinda was I guess, but you know what I mean.

So then me and Fallon just chilled outside. Actually I had to speak at one point but I just spoke in English. Haha.

But the party afterwards was cool. I think the conference organizing committee got mad at us because we were bad trainees. They wanted us to pay R$25, which covers transport, accommodation, food and drink, but we had our own transport, we didn’t stay overnight, we didn’t eat there and we took our own drink. So we kinda said we didn’t want to pay, and after lots of discussions, this one guy – a bit of an arrogant bastard actually – came back and said “You guys can stay here for free. It’s ok, you don’t have to pay. You can have food and stay for the party and you don’t have to pay. It’s free for you.” He said “free” about a thousand times. So we didn’t exactly feel welcome. Instead we went to have Cachorro Quente (cachorro is dog and quente is hot). It was really good – here, it has the sausage, but also mince, onions, peas, sweet corn kernels, coriander, tomato salsa and tiny tiny french fries all in the bread. Perfect.

Then we went back and got drunk.

It was an awesome party cos just about all the AIESEC members were there, and I hadn’t seen them in so so long. It was an 80’s party, so everyone (not us bad trainees though) was dressed up and there was los of 80’s music like Village People and Michael Jackson. I did drink too much though. I was making vodka and lemonades but even with half vodka and half lemonade, I couldn’t taste the alcohol. I think I’m becoming immune. Well. Immune to the taste, not the effect. Definitely not the effect.

The next morning, I’d lost my phone and my camera case, I had a headache from hell, and my camera had heaps of photos on that I couldn’t remember taking. But I had a lot of fun!!

Neno came to the party too, and we had a bit of a sad discussion about when I leave. It was probably worse because I’d been drinking a bit J Then us trainees took a taxi back to Recife – a one hour trip!

Then I woke up and it was my birthday!! It was very sad, because it just doesn’t feel like a birthday unless you wake up early and mum has made a lovely breakfast and a lovely birthday card, and Joe has made a funny-as-hell card, and dad sings happy birthday while he’s still half asleep, and Danny hears someone say happy birthday then says “Oh yeah, it’s your birthday” and everyone texts to say happy birthday. It’s my first birthday where I haven’t been with family. So just a couple of tears. But then I drunk another litre of yoghurt and it was all gouda again. That’s two litres of yoghurt this weekend. Is that wrong?

Me, Alex and Fallon then went to Socaldinho’s for lunch and more beer. For lunch, we shared a fish. It was absolutely beautiful! It was an entire fish, split down the middle and filled with shrimp, pumpkin and tomato stuffing, with mashed potatoes and baked potatoes and olives. And rice. It was a plate to share between three people, but we only just finished it, and afterwards felt so so full we could hardly move. But it was really nice. We got the bus back home but it was really really busy cos today was the gay parade in Boa Viagem (we missed it cos we slept in). The bus was so packed, and I was sitting next to a youngish guy – maybe 20 years old – and when the chewing gum vendor got on the bus, the boy bought two packets and gave the pink package to me. It was really weird cos he didn’t even say anything. Just gave it to me and smiled. I think he must of known that it was my birthday and no one gave me a birthday present. So at least I got one J Then lots of transvestites dressed to the nines got on the bus, so we had our own personal gay parade on the bus.

Then we all had to lie down for awhile cos we were so full and the beer was starting to take effect. But we did manage to get up later and go for ice cream J

So I’ve had a great weekend.

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PE Body Count

I know there’s suddenly a lot of stuff to read, but my computer hasn’t been working at work, and I left my USB in Olinda, so I’ve been writing posts but not been able to publish them.

Until Now.

So there’s lots to read :) But also, here is a link to the PE Body Count. PE is the state of Pernambuco, and the body count is literally a count of bodies – a count of how many homicides have occurred in PE this day, month and year.

It’s pretty horrific actually. This is why PE and Recife in particular, are known as the most dangerous state and city in Brasil. The Body Count is compiled by journalists because as the corruption and inefficiency of hospitals, police and the government here, the body count is often reported as much lower. So now that they have this official Body Count going, the government, hospitals and police are forced to admit the real statistics.

The Body Count is online, and also there’s a huge electronic billboard in the middle of the city which counts it too. It’s pretty morbid actually. But here’s the link:

http://www.pebodycount.com.br/quem-somos/quemsomos-en.php

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